Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Overview
Mount Rainier offers a full range of glacier routes, and
we have chosen two at an intermediate technical level that are of
especially high quality. Join us for an ascent of the Kautz
Glacier. From the departure point on the western edge of the Wilson
Glacier at 9,200 feet, the route skirts towering formations of rock
and ice, proceeds up sections of steep, technical terrain, and
crosses several different glaciers in the path to Rainier's summit.
While Mount Rainier sees a total of over 8,000 climbers per season,
the Kautz Glacier sees but a very small fraction of that number.
For those interested in taking "the road less traveled," this route
reserves a very special sense of accomplishment and
The Kautz Glacier, Mt. Rainier. Alasdair Turner
Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Itinerary
Sunrise on Mt. Rainier.
Day 1 - We travel to the mountain and begin
with a review of alpine skills on the lower Nisqually Glacier. We
review knots, self-arrest, foot and axe placements for ascent and
descent on both moderate and steeper ground, and Leave No Trace
(LNT) travel, camping, and climbing ethics and procedures. We
establish a camp on the eastern edge of the lower Nisqually.
Day 2 - We ascend the western edge of the
Wilson Glacier and camp beneath Camp Hazard, at around 11,000 feet,
to put ourselves in position for our ascent of the Kautz
Day 3 - Very early on the third day we begin
our summit bid. The Kautz Glacier is considerably circuitous,
glaciated, and steep in parts, often requiring the placement of
snow and ice protection. Eventually, we reach Columbia Crest and
make the short climb to the mountain's true summit at 14,410 feet.
Under good conditions, views range south to the volcanoes of Oregon
and north to Mt. Baker and the Canadian border peaks.
Day 4 - Our final day is used to descend the
Wilson and lower Nisqually Glaciers, and hike out from the
mountain. We will return to Seattle by late afternoon or early
evening. Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Details
Excellent physical condition
Completion of multiple glaciated routes with sustained
difficulties up to fifty degrees or experience equivalent to
completion of our six-day, Alpine Ice course; a good understanding
of glacier travel procedures including crevasse rescue.
18 years of age or older
If you do not have current climbing skills that meet the
pre-requisites, you can participate in one of
several preparatory courses, see below for list, in order
to gain or refresh the needed skills.
If you have questions on your qualifications, please call or
email us at anytime and we'll be happy to review your personal
experience in relationship to the prerequisites.
Mount Rainier Preparatory
If you lack some glacier skills or if you are "rusty" with them
(most climbers are if they don't climb glaciated routes regularly),
you might consider taking one of our preparatory programs:
Program Cost Inclusions and
Tuition for the program includes the guide's fee, transportation
to the mountains from Seattle, and all group climbing equipment
(ropes and hardware).
Tuition excludes the $48 Mt. Rainier National Park climbing fee
(annual pass valid for one year); lodging for the night before the
trip and the evening of the final day. Personal equipment is not
included in the program cost, but it can be rented from our
equipment shop. A complete list of recommended and required
equipment is downloadable from the right of this page.
The Mount Rainier Ascent and Skills Seminar is an excellent
program for those with intermediate alpine mountaineering skills
wishing to test and improve their glacier and alpine skills and
ascend one of the great peaks of the Cascades. It can be followed
with climbs of other major peaks in the region including Glacier
Peak (3-4 days), Mt. Shuksan (2 or 3 days), Forbidden Peak (3
days), Mt. Baker (2 or 3 days), Liberty Bell and South Early Winter
Spire (1 day each). We will be happy to set up a custom itinerary
for you or match you up with other climbers for these other classic
ascents. Call us if you would like to hear more about these climbs
or to see
Ascents in Washington. Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Dates and Registration
July 11 - July 14, 2016
July 10 - July 13, 2017
Call the Institute (360) 671-1505, Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm PST to check on space availability and to review your qualifications;
Make a reservation by giving us your name and phone number (maximum of 2 reservations per call);
Send in application form and full payment for receipt within 7 days.
Fee Schedule and Cancellation Policy: Non-refundable tuition is due in full when you register. In the event you have to cancel, we will return all but a $150 cancellation fee to you if another climber takes your place.
The Waiting List
Mt. Rainier is one beautiful mountain that is worth waiting for! Shawn Olson
If you are unable to secure a position on a Rainier climb, you can have your name placed on the waitlist. Each year there are always a number of people on each Rainier trip who have to cancel because of unforeseen needs with job, family, or health, and those openings always move a number of people off the waitlist and onto the climb. In most years we call people on the waitlist for all climbs, so if your schedule is flexible and you can go on short notice, it will be worth your while to join the waiting list.
If you wish to join the waitlist and need to commit vacation time or plan a personal schedule around those dates, we can arrange a climb on another peak in the Cascade range that offers a similar challenge and climbing experience. This option allows you to plan your trip, make travel arrangements, and enjoy a climb during that period. With good luck you will clear the waitlist and be on Rainier but if not, you will climb another American classic. We always schedule Glacier Peak, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Baker climbs on the same dates as Rainier, so if you want to, you can usually join others making these great climbs. Please call us to discuss this option.
Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Testimonials
"My guide exceeded our expectations in every way. He explained
everything clearly, was extremely patient while we practiced
everything, and had a sense of humor that kept me laughing through
Pete Nellist, Kirkland, WA
"Our guide was wonderful: he was competent,
experienced, thoughtful, and inspired confidence."
Course Participant, Mt. Rainier Ascent
"I was particularly impressed with the guides' skills during the
summit climb in marking the route with flags and compass readings
in case of a white out."
Course Participant, Mt. Rainier Ascent
"All guides were very professional, with attention to detail and
Larry Siu, Silverspring, MD
Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb Related Courses
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United States - Washington
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Canada - British Columbia
South America - Argentina
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South America - Peru
Europe - Alps and Caucasus
Asia - Nepal and Tibet
Asia - China
Africa - Tanzania
Pacific and Antarctica
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