Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition
This program provides the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000-foot (6000+ meter) peaks in a relatively short time and in one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and superb climbing on Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m), and Pokalde (5,806m).
After thorough acclimatization, climbers enjoy the steeper ground on Lobuche East. AAI Collection
The Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition is comprised of moderately technical climbing, do-able for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. We'll help you develop and advance your alpine climbing skills as we make this fantastic journey through five different valleys in a rewarding month of high Himalayan climbing.
This program is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at a reasonable price. Ultimately, our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations, and experiences available. With the leadership and company of our most affable and experienced Western guides, working collaboratively with our excellent Sherpa colleagues, we promise you an experience of a lifetime! This expedition is a joint AAI/Adventure Consultants undertaking that draws on the knowledge and experience of both guide services.
Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition
Ascents and Itinerary
During the post-monsoon season of 2014, the American Alpine Institute and Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb three of Nepal’s most popular trekking Peaks; Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft), Pokalde Peak (5,806 m /19,049ft) and Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft). The Three Peaks Nepal expedition crosses the high Kongma La pass between peaks and completes a fabulous circuit of the upper Khumbu tributaries before returning to Namche Bazaar and back to Lukla.
Island Peak, referred to by the Sherpa people as Imja Tse (an "island in a glacial sea"), is an exciting and popular peak that is an ideal starting point for the Three Peak expedition. The view from the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse's south faces is awe-inspiring.
Stepping from Island Peak to Pokalde and then Lobuche East is an ideal progression. Pokalde is traightforwad and consolidates your skills whilst Lobuche East is a little more technical with more fixed rope and slightly more exposure. The high camp is dramatic with exceptional views across towards Ama Dablam, especially at sunset when the peaks turn pink as the sun sets into Tibet. We climb a subsidiary peak of Lobuche East.
This twenty six day expedition commences when you arrive into Kathmandu, Nepal on the 10th of November. We will spend the next day sorting equipment and holding a team briefing about the journey ahead and make our final preparations. On day three, we fly to Lukla at the gateway of the Khumbu valley.
The expedition will stay at Sherpa lodges whilst we are trekking in the valleys on the way to each of the climbing objectives. On each of the peaks we will establish our Base Camp, where our talented kitchen crew will cater for us.
Approaching Island Peak on its lower glacier. Suze Kelly
On our trek up the famous Khumbu valley we will visit monasteries and small villages on the same route that Everest climbers have taken for over 50 years.
Near the head of the Imjatse Valley, Island Peak enjoys spectacular views of the North Side of Ama Dablam and the sweeping flanks of Nuptse along with the world's fourth highest peak, Lhotse. In preparation for Island Peak we first climb the Chukung Ri, a fair hike to altitude in itself at 5,550m, in a day trip from the township of Chukung. We then cross the glacier via a trail to Island Peak Base Camp. The climb of Island Peak involves some scrambling up rocky terrain to reach low angled glaciers that we walk up until the angle increases. From here we ascend via 40 degree slopes on fixed ropes. After a time we reach the exposed summit ridge and we enjoy the security of the ropes all the way to the summit. We will start the climb from base camp in the early hours of the morning. Preceding the summit attempt will be fixed rope coaching and acclimatising hikes on nearby peaks.
To climb Island Peak one needs to be fit and energetic, however extensive previous climbing experience,whilstrecommended,isnot compulsory.Yourtripleadersofboth experienced Western and Sherpa guides will provide some training that will allow you to gain or consolidate skills ensuring a safe passage on the journey with a highest degree of safety.
From Island Peak Base Camp, we will drop back below Chukung and then up to our camp below Pokalde and the Kongma La. Watch the sun dip below the horizon and feel the allure of a down jacket and warm sleeping bag! In the morning you will pack up and head off to climb Pokalde just on sunrise.
Following our descent down the Western slopes of the Kongma La we establish our Lobuche Base Camp. Depending on weather conditions, we elect to either have a rest day, or move up to a high camp on Lobuche East that lies on a small expanse of grass and rock above a deep blue lake. Then it’s early to bed for another alpine start the following morning.
On the spectacular summit ridge of Island Peak.
Our early start (around 2:30am) sees us climbing the south-east ridge which is a mixture of snow and ice.Where necessary, we fix ropes along the route. Steady climbing will bring us to the far eastern summit.
From the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse, Pumori, Gyachung Kang, and Cho Oyu. Then it’s time for our descent, all the way back to our Base Camp to celebrate!
After the ascent of Lobuche East we have an easy walk back down to the tree-line and the village of Pangboche.
From here it’s a descent to Tengboche and its famous bakery and monastery, before returning to familiar territory once we pass Namche Bazaar on the way down the valley towards Phakding. The thicker, oxygen enriched air, makes for easy travel with time to stop to enjoy the views or chat to the locals and there’s also the opportunity to enjoy Namche and perhaps even shop around for some of the thousands of items on display such as the Tibetan rugs and Tibetan jewellery and gem stones. The next day it’s onwards to Lukla for our final night in the Khumbu before the flight back to Kathmandu.
On the approach trek just before Dingbouche, with Chukung and Island Peak in the distance.
This expedition is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at the most reasonable price. Our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations and experiences that are available. It’s the small details that make all the difference, and this is where we excel. We provide the most affable and experienced western guides working in conjunction with our excellent Sherpa friends, to promise you an experience of a lifetime!