Tocllaraju Skills Expedition

Overview

Peru's Cordillera Blanca is one of the most rugged and heavily glaciated ranges in the Andes. Famous for its dry, sun-baked, fluted snow slopes, the range is home to Peru's highest mountain, Huascarán, as well as famous 6000-meter peaks like Alpamayo and Artesonraju. With hundreds of peaks rising to elevations between 17,000 and 22,000 feet, the area encompasses a remarkable array of climbing challenges, from the moderate to the extreme.

Goals

We begin with an introduction to or review of alpine climbing, glacier travel, and expedition skills.

Following the introductory skills component, we attempt ascents of several peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, including:

  • Nevado Urus Este (17,783 ft.)
  • Ishinca (18,143 ft.)

 

Finally, after skills review and acclimatization, we climb Tocllaraju (19,790 ft).

 

Prerequisites

This program is designed for those who have some fundamental alpine and glacier travel skills who would like to have a review of climbing and self-rescue technique followed by climbs of aesthetically pleasing, high altitude peaks in the midst of one of the world's most impressive mountain ranges.

Peru, Near the summit of Toqllaraju.

Near the summit of Toqllaraju. Andrew Wexler

Tocllaraju Skills Expedition

Itinerary

We enter Peru through Lima and then drive north and inland to the town of Huaraz where we begin our acclimatization by spending two nights at just over 10,000 feet. We spend our first full day in the area making an easy hike in the vicinity of Laguna Churup (14,500 ft.).

Nevado Urus Este

The next day, we drive to our trailhead at Collon and hike to our 14,000-foot base camp in the Ishinca Valley. We gain additional acclimatization here, as well as spending a full day on an introduction or review of glacier travel skills. In the following days, we tackle our first climb, Nevado Urus Este. This is a moderate climb on a glacier (up to 30 degrees), and it furthers our acclimatization while providing spectacular views of our coming objectives, Nevado Ishinca and Toqllaraju, as well as of Ranrapallca and Nevado de Copa.

Peru, The alpenglow is spectacular at high camp on Toqllaraju.

The alpenglow is spectacular at high camp on Toqllaraju.
Andrew Wexler

Ishinca

Next, we establish our high camp for Ishinca by a lake at 16,076 feet and take another day there for review and further development of snow and ice climbing, hazard assessment, and route finding skills. Our summit climb of Ishinca is more challenging than Urus, with major crevasses to skirt, steeper slopes, and a dramatic belayed finish on a 40 to 45-degree headwall just below the 18,143-foot summit.

Toqllaraju

After a rest day, we establish a high camp for Toqllaraju at 17,389 feet. On this climb we enjoy quite varied glacier travel, with gradually steepening faces, major crevasses and 'schrunds to avoid or negotiate, and short, steep steps that we belay intermittently. This is an extremely scenic climb throughout and the views from the 19,790-foot summit are tremendous.

We have an additional two days to return to base and Huaraz, as well as an extra day for weather or further acclimatization as needed. Following this climb many team members will stay for the short expedition on Chopicalqui.

Tocllaraju Skills Expedition

Prices, Dates and Details

  • $3590, Toqllaraju Expedition only
  • $4790, Toqllaraju and Chopicalqui Expedition combined

Prices are based on a minimum of 4 people per trip.  Contact the AAI office at 360-671-1505 (Toll Free: 1-800-424-2249) or email: info@alpineinstitute.com for pricing on smaller groups. 

Max Ratio - 4:1, 8:2 (Climber/Guide Ratio)

Capacity - 8

 

Dates

Part 1: Toqllaraju Skills Expedition

    • May 19 - June 1, 2019
    • June 16 - 29, 2019 - Filling!
    • July 7 - 20, 2019

 

Part 2: Chopicalqui Climb

    • June 2 - 7, 2019
    • June 30 - 5, 2019 - Filling!
    • July 21 - 26, 2019

 

Prerequisites:

      • Fundamental alpine and glacier climbing skills
      • Very good physical condition

 

Flight Information

Peru, Toqllaraju - Map

Flight arrangements should be scheduled so that you arrive in Lima the evening before the first scheduled day of the trip. The morning of the trip's first day, you will take a bus from Lima to Huaraz. Please schedule your departure so that you leave after 10pm the day after the last scheduled day of the trip (the bus ride from Huaraz to Lima takes approximately 8 hours, the bus departs from Huaraz is 11am).

Flights to Lima, Hotel reservations in Lima, bus tickets from Lima to Huaraz, can be arranged ahead of time through our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, who can be reached at (509) 972-4028.

Program Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions:  Hotel in Lima (1 night) and Huaraz (4 nights for Toqllaraju portion; 2 nights for Chopicalqui portion) on a shared twin basis; transportation between Lima and Huaraz; tents while trekking or climbing on a shared basis (all lodging on a private basis is subject to availability and at a added cost); meals while trekking and climbing; admissions to parks; group cooking equipment; group climbing equipment.

Exclusions: Airfare; personal equipment; meals except while trekking and climbing; climbing snacks (bring your personal preferences); gratuities to guides; insurance; government and airport taxes; inoculations; excess baggage; all items of a personal nature. 

Tocllaraju Skills Expedition

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