Peru - Chopicalqui Expedition

Overview

Nearing the Chopicalqui basecamp in Quebrada Angosh.

Nearing the Chopicalqui basecamp in Quebrada Angosh. Andrew Wexler

GOAL:  Ascent of Chopicalqui via the classic Southwest Ridge; 

PREREQUISITES: This program is designed for those who have fundamental alpine and glacier travel skills who would like to have a review of climbing and self-rescue technique followed by climbs of aesthetically pleasing, high altitude peaks in the midst of one of the world's most impressive mountain ranges.  Participation in the Peru - Toqllaraju Expedition is strongly recommended for thorough acclimatization.

Peru - Chopicalqui Expedition

Itinerary

Peru, Chopicalqui - Glacier

Navigating around the large crevasses present on Chopicalqui.  David Kessler

Chopicalqui is spectacularly situated northeast of and connected to Peru's highest peak, Huascaran Sur. With Huascaran Norte and Sur, it is the third highest summit encircling the Llanganuco Glacier and forming the immense and dramatic Angosh Cirque. This is a five-day expedition to Chopicalqui's beautiful summit via a complex and high quality route.

After a rest day and two nights at our hotel in Huaras, we set up a base camp in Quebrada Angosh. From there we make a double carry to our high camp at 18,373 ft. which puts us in position to climb the peak's classic southwest ridge. Our route begins with travel up a major glacier, followed by gradually steepening terrain on a broad ridge with some interesting route finding to avoid crevasses and seracs. As we move higher the ridge narrows and steepens, and while this finish to our ascent is not highly technical, the exposure to either side is striking and one of the characteristics that makes this route so remarkably photogenic.

We have spectacular views of the two peaks of Huascaran, first of Norte's precipitous northeast face and then of Sur's seldom climbed northeast face. From the summit we enjoy what many consider to be the best view in the Cordillera Blanca, including the south faces of the Huandoys, Chakraraju, Alpamayo, and Taulliraju. From beginning to end, this is an ideal high altitude expeditionary experience for climbers with fundamental alpine climbing and glacier travel skills.

Peru - Chopicalqui Expedition

Prices and Details

  • $1390, Chopicalqui Expedition only
  • $4790, Toqllaraju and Chopicalqui Expedition combined

Prices are based on a minimum of 4 people per trip.  Contact the AAI office at 360-671-1505 (Toll Free: 1-800-424-2249) or email: info@alpineinstitute.com for pricing on smaller groups. 

Max Ratio - 4:1, 8:2 (Climber/Guide Ratio)

Capacity - 8

Dates

Part 1: Toqllaraju Sklls Expedition

  • May 22 - June 4, 2016
  • June 19 - July 2, 2016
  • July 10 - 23, 2016

 

Part 2: Chopicalqui Climb

  • June 5 - 10, 2016
  • July 3 - 8, 2016
  • July 24 - 29, 2016

 

Prerequisites

  • Fundamental alpine and glacier climbing skills
  • Very good physical condition

 

Flight Information

Peru, Toqllaraju - Map

Flight arrangements should be scheduled so that you arrive in Lima the evening before the first scheduled day of the trip. The morning of the trip's first day, you will take a bus from Lima to Huaraz. Please schedule your departure so that you leave after 10pm the day after the last scheduled day of the trip (the bus ride from Huaraz to Lima takes approximately 8 hours, the bus departs from Huaraz is 11am).

Flights to Lima, Hotel reservations in Lima, bus tickets from Lima to Huaraz, can be arranged ahead of time through our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, who can be reached at (509) 972-4028.

Program Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions:   Hotel in Lima (1 night) and Huaraz (4 nights for Toqllaraju portion; 2 nights for Chopicalqui portion) on a shared twin basis; transportation between Lima and Huaraz; tents while trekking or climbing on a shared basis (all lodging on a private basis is subject to availability and at a added cost); meals while trekking and climbing; admissions to parks; group cooking equipment; group climbing equipment.

Exclusions: Airfare; personal equipment; meals except while trekking and climbing; climbing snacks (bring your personal preferences); gratuities to guides; insurance; government and airport taxes; inoculations; excess baggage; all items of a personal nature. 

Peru - Chopicalqui Expedition

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