Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

Overview

NOTE: Cotopaxi has been experiencing an increase in volcanic activity, resulting in the closure of the peak to climbing by the Ecuadorian Government. AAI continues to climb in Ecuador, and the Cotopaxi Skills Expedition is climbing Cayambe and Anitsana (18,874'/ 5752m), in place of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. In most other respects the program details below are unchanged. Please see the text below and download the Cayambe-Antisana Skills Itinerary for more details on our modified program.


We do it all on this trip:  learn or refresh skills with expert instructors, climb Cotopaxi and Cayambe -- two of Ecuador's most famous volcanoes -- immerse ourselves in a rich culture, and take rest days in well-appointed haciendas with good local food.

In addition, for climbers who are still hungry for summits after Cotopaxi, it is possible to extend this trip with a five-day Chimborazo climb, summiting Ecuador's highest peak at 20,703 feet.

In sum, the variety and beauty on this trip are awe-inspiring, and the personal rewards are of such variety and depth that this is commonly one of those experiences that people describe as "a trip of a lifetime." You can also absolutely guarantee that categorization if you add on a five to seven-day boat-based journey through the Galapagos Islands after your climbs. Many who have made ascents with us here have enjoyed ending their Andean journey with a few days in that wonderful archipelago off the coast of Ecuador.

Acclimatization

We take a conservative approach to acclimatization, and the wisdom of our itineraries is seen every year in the safety record of our trips and the tremendous success rate of our climbers. We have been guiding the high altitude peaks of Ecuador since 1977, and the days we allocate to acclimatization are based on our decades of experience.

Ecuador, Cotopaxi - High on Cayambe.

High on Cayambe. Dylan Taylor

Alhough in our first trips we allocated nine days for climbing Cayambe and Cotopaxi, for more than two decades we have been climbing on a ten-day itinerary because we found people are much more comfortable at altitude and enjoy a summit success rate slightly over 30% higher than on a nine-day itinerary. You will find other guide services that offer eight and nine-day trips. Our experience tells us that if you subscribed to that pace, you will save a little money and vacation time but cut your summit success rate by 30% - 50%. Climbing at altitude is quite challenging, and it is important to stack the odds for success in your own favor.

 

Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

Structure and Goals

NOTE: Cotopaxi has been experiencing an increase in volcanic activity, resulting in the closure of the peak to climbing by the Ecuadorian Government. AAI continues to climb in Ecuador, and the Cotopaxi Skills Expedition is climbing Cayambe and Anitsana (18,874'/ 5752m), in place of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. In most other respects the program details below are unchanged. Please see the text below and download the Cayambe-Antisana Skills Itinerary for more details on our modified program.

Part 1: Skills Training and Acclimatization

Quito and Otavalo

The Andes of Ecuador run as two parallel and impressive chains of peaks, rising dramatically from Pacific coastal lowlands on the west and even more abruptly from the Amazon Basin on the east. Our flight into Ecuador gives us a grand view of the entire range as we cross the country's northwest coast and pass just over the Pichinchas - 15,700-foot volcanoes standing right above Quito - then drop down to the capital's airport at 9400 feet. It is an exciting entrance into a spectacular country and beautiful city.

Quito is South America's second highest capital (after La Paz, Bolivia), and its high altitude allows us to begin our acclimatization as soon as we arrive. The city fills a gently sloping valley beneath thirteen to fifteen thousand-foot peaks, and from several points just above Quito it is possible to look up and down the "Avenue of the Volcanoes," as the Ecuadorian tourist industry is fond of calling it, and see most of the country's major summits.

A climber purchasing food in a traditional Ecuadorian market.

A climber purchasing food in a traditional Ecuadorian market. Paul Galvin

The program begins with climbing team members traveling to Ecuador on a Friday and meeting AAI staff members that evening for an initial program orientation. On our first full day in Ecuador, we drive north, stopping briefly at the Equatorial Monument for photos on the equator, then move on to Otavalo, world-renowned for the excellence of its weavings. Our visit is timed for market day, when the Otavalans come down from their villages in the surrounding mountains to sell their agricultural products, weavings, and sweaters. After a morning of exploration, photography, and shopping in the market, we hike the hills above town and cross through fields and eucalyptus groves as we make our way to a lake for a meal of Otavalan cuisine at a shoreline restaurant.

During our additional time in Quito, AAI staff members continue the program orientation with discussions of the itinerary, high altitude physiology, and a final equipment review and check. We explore Quito, a city of pretty parks and boulevards, grand mansions and embassies, but also a living display of South America's colonial past. Not far from our hotel, cobbled streets with sunken walks spanned by beautiful stone arches wind around, overlooked by buildings of 16th and 17th century Spanish architecture. We also visit the national ethnological museum (which provides a good introduction to the history of Ecuador), several of the city's most interesting colonial churches, and the busy and traditional central market.

Acclimatization Hikes and Skills Training

Our first acclimatization hike is on 13,776-foot Pasochoa, an extinct volcano about twenty miles south of Quito. Its large, eroded crater opens to the west, and its northwest flanks support a forest like those that once covered the entire Quito basin. We establish a very easy pace on this day hike as we begin to get our bodies used to altitudes above 10,000 feet. Our second acclimatization hike is on Guagua Pichincha, and though its summit rises to 15,695 feet, our time in Quito and on Pasochoa make this a good next step for us at altitude. Our primary goal on both of these days is to give our bodies a chance to begin their further adjustment to the altitude while we enjoy some beautiful hiking and outstanding photographic opportunities. These rocky ridges, high grasslands, and summits provide great views of the entire cordillera and an excellent orientation to Ecuador's geography.

 

Part 2: Ascent of Cayambe (18,997 ft / 5790m)

Cayambe is Ecuador's third highest peak. Forty miles northeast of Quito, it stands at 18,997 feet, looking out over Reventador ("The Exploder", one of South America's most consistently active volcanoes) and over the Amazon Basin. Cayambe's glaciers are large and among the most active of all equatorial ice flows, and the varied glacial terrain here provides an excellent training ground and a rewarding summit climb.

Having spent at least seventy-two hours above 9000 feet, group members should be well enough acclimatized to begin sleeping and climbing at greater altitudes. Driving north to the mountain we pass through high, rolling grasslands with wildflowers and occasional herds of sheep and llamas. Leaving paved roads, the track we follow passes several working haciendas, steadily narrows, and becomes more rugged as it climbs higher and higher, finally to reach a point within a half-hour hike of a large stone hut that serves as our base on the slopes of Cayambe at 15,290 feet.

As we continue our adjustment to the altitude, we spend our first afternoon and the following day in moderate activity on a low section of the glacier where we work on glacier travel skills, protective systems techniques, and the general procedures we will use in our ascents. The route we will take is not technical, but the number and size of the crevasses make the route serious and the route finding and overall climbing very interesting.

Climbing with headlamps, we leave long before dawn in order to have firm snow conditions throughout the ascent. For the first four hours we make an easy glacier climb to a saddle, and then continue onto steeper and more exciting ground. We traverse around large crevasses, many with enormous tropical icicles hanging from their edges, pass some spectacular seracs, and climb 35-degree slopes with occasional and short, steeper sections as we work our way to the crater rim. The final climb to the summit follows a photogenic line along the glaciated edge of the volcano's crater, a fittingly dramatic ending to an ascent that is varied and scenic throughout.

 

Part 3: Ascent of Antisana (18,874 ft / 5752m)

Despite its spectacular appearance and the quality of its climbing, Antisana does not see nearly the traffic that its neighbors receive because of a combination of two factors. First, it has a moderately technical nature - there are no "walk-up" routes on the mountain - which means that though this is not a technical climb, those who attempt it must have intermediate glacier climbing skills. Second, access to the peak has been severely limited by surrounding haciendas in order to protect the wildlife found there as well as their own small herds of livestock.

Ecuador, Antisana - SummitNearing the summit on Antisana with Cayambe in the distance. Dylan Taylor

Leaving our hacienda below Cayambe, we cross the central valley, then drive up through some of Ecuador's most beautiful Andean foothills. We pass through several traditional, small villages before crossing rolling paramo and then steadily gaining altitude as we travel from roughly 9500 feet (2900m) to well over 14,000 feet (4300m). Here we have opportunities for viewing wildlife, including deer, boar, wild horses, fox, and bird life ranging from hummingbirds to condors.

The glaciers on Antisana are very active, and their configuration is complex and always in the process of evolution. Our choice of route will depend on conditions at the time of our climb, but it will most likely include a combination of moderately angled glacier travel and short, steep sections that require the use of a full range of snow and ice techniques that you will have practiced on Cayambe. The climbing on the entire route is interesting, and we are rewarded with views from the summit that include a rare look at the north face of Cotopaxi and an excellent view across a portion of the Amazon Basin.

This journey to Antisana is a great adventure. It includes high quality alpine climbing on the world's largest low latitude glaciers in an area that feels very remote and untouched. A person might easily decide to come here for the wildlife and the beauty of the landscape, but add superb climbing to the experience of those other qualities -- and you have a remarkable climbing expedition that will provide memories to last a lifetime.

Optional Chimborazo Extension

Many people wish to climb Chimborazo, the highest peak in Ecuador at 20,703 feet (6310m), and a summit with the further distinction of being furthest from the center of the earth. (Because of the ellipsoid shape of the planet, Chimborazo's location close to the Equator makes it "higher" by this measurement than Mt. Everest.)

Click on the link to learn more about the five-day extension to climb Chimborazo.

Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

Program Dates

NOTE: Cotopaxi has been experiencing an increase in volcanic activity, resulting in the closure of the peak to climbing by the Ecuadorian Government. AAI continues to climb in Ecuador, and the Cotopaxi Skills Expedition is climbing Cayambe and Anitsana (18,874'/ 5752m), in place of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. In most other respects the program details are unchanged. Please download the Cayambe-Antisana Skills Itinerary for more details on our modified program.

The Cayambe Antisana Skills Expedition can be combined with a 5-day extension to summit Chimborazo (20,703 ft.), the highest mountain in Ecuador. Scroll down for 2016-2017 and 2017-2018 dates.

2016-2017 Dates 

Cayambe and Antisana Skills Expedition

  • Nov 04-13, 2016 (Successful summits of Cayambe and Antisana)
  • Nov 18-27, 2016 (Successful summits of Cayambe and Antisana)
  • Dec 02-11, 2016 (Successful summits of Cayambe and Antisana)
  • Dec 16-25, 2016 (Successful summit of Cayambe; elevation reached on Antisana: 17,454 ft / 5320 m)
  • Jan 06-15, 2017 (Successful summits of Cayambe and Antisana)
  • Jan 20-29, 2017 (Elevation reached on Cayambe and Antisana 17,100 ft / 5212 m)
  • Feb 10-19, 2017 (Successful summits of Cayambe and Corazon)
  • May 19-28, 2017 (Elevation reached on Cayambe: 17,000 ft / 5181 m; successful summit of Antisana)
  • Jun 16-25, 2017 (Successful summit of Cayambe; elevation reached on Antisana 17,061 ft /5200 m)
  • Jun 30-Jul 09, 2017 (Elevation reached on Cayambe: 16,072 ft / 4900 m)
  • Jul 10-16, 2017 (Successful summit of Cayambe)

 

Chimborazo Extension: Please click on the link to view course dates.

2017-2018 Dates 

Cayambe and Antisana Skills Expedition

  • Nov 03-12, 2017 - Filling!
  • Nov 17-26, 2017
  • Dec 01-10, 2017 Filling!
  • Dec 15-24, 2017
  • Dec 22-31, 2017
  • Jan 05-14, 2018
  • Jan 19-28, 2018 Filling!
  • Feb 09-18, 2018 Filling!
  • Mar 02-11, 2018
  • May 04-13, 2018 Filling!
  • May 18-27, 2018
  • Jun 01-10, 2018 Filling!
  • Jun 15-24, 2018
  • Jun 29 - Jul 8, 2018
  • Jul 20-29, 2018
  • Aug 03-12, 2018

Chimborazo Extension: Please click on the link to view course dates.

Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

Details

NOTE: Cotopaxi has been experiencing an increase in volcanic activity, resulting in the closure of the peak to climbing by the Ecuadorian Government. AAI continues to climb in Ecuador, and the Cotopaxi Skills Expedition is climbing Cayambe and Anitsana (18,874'/ 5752m), in place of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. In most other respects the program details below are unchanged. Please see the text below and download the Cayambe-Antisana Skills Itinerary for more details on our modified program.

Pricing: $2470;  Prices are based on a minimum of 2 people per trip

Max Ratio: 2:1

Capacity: 10

Private Trip Pricing: 

1:1 $5140

2:1 $3460

3:2 $3160

4:2 $2960

Climbing in Ecuador can be an amazing adventure to share with friends or family! Please contact the AAI Office for additional information on private trips, or to arrange a customized trip that fits your unique schedule and availability: 360-671-1505 (Toll Free: 1-800-424-2249) or email: info@alpineinstitute.com. We would be happy to set something up for you!

Prerequisites

  • Excellent physical condition - We will be happy to advise you on a condititioning program; more information is provided in the registration packet
  • Previous climbing experience is not required

Program Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Lodging in hotels, haciendas, huts, and tents on a shared basis for the dates of your program (available on a private basis by special arrangement, subject to availability, and at added cost); meals while at huts and while climbing; group cooking equipment; admissions to museums and national parks; group climbing equipment; transportation during trip.

Exclusions: Airfare; airport transfers; personal equipment; meals in cities, hotels, haciendas, and lodges; gratuities to guides; government and airport taxes; inoculations; personal insurance; excess baggage.

Ecuador, Cotopaxi - Map

 

Flight Information

Flight arrangements should be made so that you arrive in Quito on the first scheduled start day of the trip, and you depart the day after the last scheduled day of the trip. Please email or call our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, if you would like assistance with travel arrangements (509-972-4028).

 

Other Programs & Custom Itineraries in Ecuador

Both the Skills Expedition and the Antisana-Illiniza climb can be followed with an ascent of Chimborazo. Our El Altar Expedition may be of interest to you if you are looking for more technical challenge on a remote and rarely climbed Ecuadorian peak. See the program pages for more details on each of these expeditions. We can also provide you with custom itineraries of any length for hiking, trekking, backpacking, scrambling, and climbing.

Galapagoes Island, Amazon Basin, Rain Forest add-ons

Travelling as far as you are to get to Ecuador, you may want to take advantage of your presence there to make a visit to the Galapagos Islands--an area that is on most people's short list of "sites I have to see in my lifetime." You can meet blue-footed boobies close up, swim with penguins and seals, and photograph amazing reptiles--all with no fear of humans. We can also arrange tours to the Amazon Basin and to lodges in the Ecuadorian cloud forest. Tours can range from a few days to a week or more. Call the AAI travel coordinator if you'd like to discuss some of your ideas or our recommendations.

Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

Testimonials

"I had a great experience in Ecuador, and enjoyed every minute. The trip was very rewarding regarding beauty and the mountain experiences, but I expected this. What I did not expect were the friendships and relationships that developed between our lead guide, who was a fantastic human being, and the climbers. The guide was a very knowledgeable and experienced guide and I completely trusted him. He was completely committed to the climbers in situations in and out of the mountains, and we traveled effortlessly through his country. The combination of great company and great guiding made this trip a fantastic experience. Thanks AAI!"

Mike Brennan, Scranton, PA

"Not only was my guide technically solid on the mountains, he showed balanced decision making skills on each of the climbs. He did a great job tailoring the trip to our individual needs and abilities."
George Henderson, Harrisburg, PA

"Our expedition was truly an excellent experience. I believe this was due in large part to the character, skill, and personality of our two guides. They were exceptional, made us all feel like we could push ourselves safely, and helped me experience great personal success."
Josh Katzman, Arlington, MA

"AAI is by far the most experienced guide service in the Andes."
Adventure Travel Magazine

Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition

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