Cho Oyu Expedition

Overview

Cho Oyu stands along the Nepali-Tibetan border about 18 miles west of Everest, tied to it by a long ridge with five summits over 23,000 feet. Cho Oyu is the world's sixth highest peak but has the highest success rate of all the 8000 meter peaks because of the quality of its route, the good conditions typically found there, and its ease of access. This expedition is a joint AAI/Adventure Consultants undertaking.

Cho Oyu from base camp near the Nangpa La.

Cho Oyu from base camp near the Nangpa La. Arthur Collins

Cho Oyu Expedition

Trip Structure and Itinerary

Cho Oyu - Map

The expedition commences in Chengdu, the capital of southwestern China’s Sichuan province. From there we travel by plane to Lhasa where we are met by the staff from the Tibetan Mountaineering Association. There is time for sightseeing in Lhasa and we begin to acclimatise since Lhasa is at a height of 3,540m. We then transfer to vehicles for the journey overland to the mountain. We stop for a few nights along the way to assist acclimatisation, as the vehicles ultimately take us to 4,800m. From the road’s end, it is a two-day trek with yaks carrying the luggage, leading us to the Base Camp at 5,650m. This is a spectacular spot set across from the famous Nangpa La Pass.

The route to Camp One follows the moraine up the main glacier and turns off to the east up a tributary glacier after a two-hour hike. After a steep climb up the scree and snow, we are led to the camp at 6,400m. We also use a Camp 1.5 at 6,700m.

From Camp One, the route follows a moderate snow and ice ridge before leading through a small ice serac and out onto a broad plateau. Camp Two is situated at 7,000m in a ‘football field’ looking up at the summit region. From Camp Two, a 30-degree snow climb leads directly up to Camp Three at 7,400m.

The summit climb from Camp Three will take around 12 hours return for most members and involves climbing through a short rock band just above the top camp before heading into an open couloir, which in turn leads to the summit plateau. 

On the summit of Cho Oyu!

On the summit of Cho Oyu!
Arthur Collins

 

A small team of Sherpas will accompany the expedition to provide the real ‘carrying power’ and ensure the high camps are well stocked for the summit climb. The climbing plan involves several trips up the mountain as far as Camp Two for acclimatization, punctuated by some rest days at the Base Camp.

The summit climb will take place at the end of September/ early October during the best weather window. Two bottles of oxygen will be available for each member for the summit climb. All members will be accompanied by guides and Sherpas during the summit day.

 

 

Cho Oyu Expedition

Cost and Details

$20,500 - including oxygen

Max Ratio - 12 climbers with 3 western guides and Sherpa support

Capacity - 12

 

Dates

  • August 30 - October 12, 2018

 

Prerequisites

  • Solid snow and ice climbings skills; including ability to climb short sections of steep ice with a small pack
  • Excellent glacier travel technique
  • Experience with cold weather climbing and ascents at 20,000 feet
  • Excellent physical condition

Cho Oyu Expedition

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