Mt. Whitney Climb

Overview

Rising to 14,494 feet, Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the lower 48 states and the crown jewel of California's Sierra Nevada. Climbing Mt. Whitney lets you experience one of America's most beautiful alpine settings, with high lakes, meadows, and superb granite.

Most people climb the mountain by way of the Whitney Trail walk-up. However, the mountain has three other alpine climbs on the east side (ranging from easy to intermediate technical difficulty), and each offers excellent climbing and the opportunity to enjoy a great wilderness experience.

Mt. Whitney East Buttress - 5.7 from John Grace on Vimeo.

Routes

The Mountaineers Route

Mt. Whitney guide Ian McEleny with climbers on the summit.

Mt. Whitney guide Ian McEleny with climbers on the summit. Mike and Elaine Raymond

For those who enjoy scrambling, the Mountaineers Route is the route of choice. It can be done in a variety of conditions and in all seasons. While it is rated Class 3, which is considered to be non-technical, the climb offers the challenge of both altitude and endurance. We use the same high camp as we do for the East Face routes, first backpacking to picturesque Iceberg Lake which is surrounded by peaks over 14,000 feet. Initially our route takes us over moderate snow & ice in the early season and over 3rd class rock in mid and later season. Following a long classic couloir ascent, we make a very photogenic traverse to the north. This upper part of the routes gives moderate exposure and wonderful views especially of the dramatic faces of nearby Mt. Russell. The final climb to the summit is fittingly dramatic for highest peak in the lower 48 states.

Technical Climbs

Climbers interested in pursuing more technical ascents on Mt. Whitney have many options.  If you do not yet have technical climbing training, you may be interested in our introductory rock and alpine climbing courses in the Sierra Nevada.

The East Face

On the first pitch of the East Face route, Mount Whitney.

On the first pitch of the East Face route, Mount Whitney. Justin Wood

This is a moderate climb on a very aesthetic line up Whitney's steep East Face. For those with good basic skills, it is a perfect introduction to technical alpine rock climbing. Our approach to high camp at Iceberg Lake takes us into the beautiful high cirque of the Whitney massif. The route itself features excellent rock on solid moves to 5.6 and significant exposure. We begin with enjoyable and quite varied face and crack climbing on the "Washboard;" higher up we complete the aptly named "Fresh-Air Traverse;" and later end with the 4th and 5th class "Grand Staircase" to the dramatic summit. Although awe inspiring and seemingly forbidding from its base, intermediate rock climbers will find this route to be a suitable challenge and a truly rewarding climb both technically and aesthetically.

The East Buttress

The East Buttress is the classic intermediate route on the east side of Mount Whitney and is a more direct line of ascent compared to the East Face. On this route, climbers will encounter a variety of interesting features including towers, pillars, and gendarmes. Climbing is relatively moderate throughout with the hardest pitches being encountered low on the route including a few short sections of 5.7 and 5.8.

Mt. Whitney Climb

Itinerary

Climbing in the Alabama Hills with Mount Whitney in the background.

Climbing in the Alabama Hills with Mount Whitney in the background. Josh Wonner

For all of Mt Whitney climbs, we meet in Mammoth at 8am on the first day for a gear check and orientation. We then drive to a nearby rock climbing area (8000 ft) where we use this important time to acclimatize and to either learn or review rock climbing skills. The next day we drive to the Whitney Portal trailhead (8200 ft) to start the approach into beautiful Iceberg Lake and our base camp (12,300 ft). Day three is summit day, and on the fourth day we hike out. For three day climbs meeting at the Lone Pine Ranger Station on Day 1 can be arranged by request. 

 

Getting There

Most climbers will fly into Reno, NV where there are numerous inexpensive flights from all over the U.S. If arriving in the summer months May through October, renting a 2 wheel drive vehicle is fine. If coming in the winter, it's better to have 4 wheel drive, or at least front wheel drive with chains and good clearance. The drive from Reno to Mammoth is about 3 hours in the summer. 

Mt. Whitney Climb

Cost and Details

The following per person prices are based on climber to guide ratios for GROUP/PUBLIC climbs. For private trip pricing please click HERE.

Mountaineer's Route – Max Ratio 3:1 (depending on conditions)

4 Days:

  • $760; 3:1 Ratio
  • $990; 2:1 Ratio
  • $1390; 1:1 Ratio

 

East Face or East Buttress – Max Ratio 2:1

4 Days:

  • $990; 2:1 Ratio
  • $1390; 1:1 Ratio

 

Prerequisites

Mountaineer's Route: 

  • Good physical condition
  • Overnight backpacking experience
  • Ability to move through rough talus-like terrain

East Face or East Buttress:  All of the above, plus the ability to follow 5.6 (East Face) or 5.8 (East Buttress) multipitch rock climbs.

Rental Equipment

For beginners and other climbers who do not have their own personal climbing equipment, we offer rental equipment.  The following items are available to rent in the Sierra:

  • helmets
  • harnesses
  • ice axes
  • crampons
  • ice tools
  • tents
  • avalanche gear (beacon/probe/shovel)
  • cooking gear (stove/pot/fuel)
  • snowshoes
  • backpacks

 

Please note that we do not rent boots, sleeping bags or sleeping pads in the Sierra; your best option if you need this gear for your course is to contact Wilson's East Side Sports in Bishop, CA, or Mammoth Mountaineering in Mammoth Lakes, CA.  Regardless of what you need, please be sure to alert all parties of your rental needs as soon as possible.

 

Lodging, Shuttle Service, and Directions

Your travel dates should allow for an arrival in town the day before your program begins and for departure the day after your trip ends. We do not recommend that you fly out any earlier than the day after your course.   

The meeting location (in order to acclimatize) is Mammoth Lakes, CA which has a small airport.  Other options include flying in to Reno, NV or Las Vegas, NV.  Mammoth Lakes is a small town with a variety of accommodation options you can take advantage of before or after your course.

During this course, you will need to provide transportation to and from the course location and possibly while on the course. You should come prepared to drive yourself and your instructor to and from the trailhead and climbing areas. If you would like assistance arranging a rental vehicle please feel free to contact our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, at 509-972-4028.  

 

Travel Insurance

We strongly recommend that you purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes trip cancellation coverage.  Ripcord is our primary travel insurance provider, offering coverage for trip cancellation, trip delay, baggage, medical evacuation and other eventualities. 

Unlike many vacations that are less physically demanding, a climbing and trekking vacation can be ruined by an illness or relatively minor injury that occurs before departure. While you can still tour a city or head to the beach with a sprained ankle or a very bad cold (albeit, less conveniently), such an injury or common illness can stop you in your tracks short of your climbing or trekking destination.

 

Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment, permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.  

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear (including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, tent, etc), gratuities to guide, meals while on the course, transportation, or travel insurance. You will also be responsible for your own lodging/camping the first night if enrolled in the four day course option. 

Mt. Whitney Climb

Dates

Spring - Fall 2018 Mt. Whitney Skills and Climb Course

The following dates are our tentative 2018 Mt. Whitney Skills and Climb public courses. You may pre-register at this time, but please do not finalize trip plans until you have received official confirmation and your tuition invoice from your Program Coordinator confirming dates have been approved. You will receive notification by January 2018. 

Route will be determined by the first person enrolled on a course and then noted next to the dates as the course begins to fill. 

May 25 - May 28, 2018

June 18 - June 21, 2018

June 27 - June 30, 2018

July 06 - July 09, 2018

July 16 - July 19, 2018

August 06 - 09, 2018

August 30 - September 02, 2018

September 15 - 18, 2018

October 05 - October 08, 2018

Trips often fill up quickly. Plan early to ensure you get your dates!

Mt Whitney is a very popular climb and trip dates are dependent on permit availability. Alternate dates may be available pending permit approval and guide availability.  Please call our office for custom trip options.

For winter climbing on Mt. Whitney (December - April), please refer to our Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra page.

Mt. Whitney Climb

Testimonials

"What a trip! Thanks to my guide and all the work he did to make this climb come together. He was very sensitive to any short comings his clients may have had, we had a ball."
Bruce Worley, New Orleans, LA

 

"I just returned from a successful climb last Saturday of the East Face of Mt. Whitney, and my guide was outstanding in all respects. I have used guides from all of the well-known Northwest guide services at one time or another in the last six or seven years, and found my AAI guide to be knowledgeable, industrious, safe, and an excellent climbing guide. I wholeheartedly will recommend him to others, and would look forward to climbing with him in the future, should the opportunity arise. Thanks, AAI, for setting up a most enjoyable climb. "
Lew Miller, Richland, WA

 

"Our guide was professional, informative, and patient. He knew exactly when to push, pull, and push again. He was keenly aware of our safety, and his combined guidance and knowledge made him an excellent teacher/companion."
James Reggio, Plainview, NY

 

"My guide was very professional in his approach for our climb. We weren't sure about spending 3 nights on the mountain but he convinced us that it would help us in the long run. He was so right. He was very patient and helpful with our climbing skills. I think he was a big reason we were successful in our endeavor. As he put it at the top, "I have two 53 year old moms who just climbed the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney." We received a standing ovation from the people up there. It was a great trip that I am sure Anne and I will never forget. I would climb with him any day . He challenged us but kept us safe as well. Overall an unforgetable experience. We are hoping to climb with AAI again whenever we get the chance and hopefully with the same guide. Thanks for an incredible life experience!"
Mary Clare Johnson, Riverwooods, IL

Mt. Whitney Climb

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