Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra

Overview

Winter camping in the Sierra.

Winter camping in the Sierra.
Julius Gawlas

Winter mountaineering encompasses one of the most aesthetic and rewarding facets of the sport of climbing. Like all forms of the sport, winter mountaineering has as much to do with mental challenge as it does with physical endurance and the successful application of technical skills. In addition to applying a wide range of climbing skills, as a winter climber you must:

  • understand and evaluate snowpack stability
  • be proficient at assessing avalanche hazard
  • have a thorough understanding of mountain weather
  • be capable of route finding under occasionally difficult conditions
  • readily maintain suitable shelters in cold and wind
  • attend precisely to the details of climbing technique and protective systems.

 

This program is conducted while using snowshoes; previous snowshoeing experience is not required. Private instruction courses can also be taken as a ski mountaineering course using telemark or randonnee gear; to elect this option, you must be an advanced-intermediate skier capable of controlled descent on ungroomed, varied terrain.  Please call our office for more information.

In our winter program our goals are to help backpackers and mountaineers with little or no winter experience gain a complete repertoire of winter backcountry and climbing skills. This course will prepare participants to apply those skills in an expeditionary context, such as on Denali. We cover the challenges of cold weather camping; the complexity of backcountry travel (including both route finding and hazard evaluation); winter climbing, protective systems, and rope handling skills; and either snowshoeing or skiing technique.

The curriculum is designed to prepare you for Arctic climbing as well as non-Arctic high altitude climbing, which commonly involves winter-like conditions.  Upon completion of this program, you should be capable of gaining safe access to the backcountry and high alpine peaks, and you should be able to camp and climb comfortably in a variety of conditions. The training should allow you to become a proficient rope team member, capable of making alpine ascents of intermediate technical difficulty. 

 

Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra

Curriculum and Location

AAI's Winter Comprehensive Progression

This winter mountaineering course can be combined with our waterfall ice program and our backcountry skiing program. When taken together or pieced together over a season or two, these programs together make up our "winter comprehensive curriculum." Here are links to the other two program in this progression:

  1. Waterfall Ice Climbing (Sierra, CA)
  2. Backcountry Skiing (Sierra, CA)

 

Comprehensive programs in the Sierra run for 9 days total. 

Mount Whitney

Sierra Winter - Whitney

Preparing to ascend Mt. Whitney in the winter. Julia Gawlas

Mount Whitney, the tallest peak in the Lower 48, is unique in that it is climbable in any month of the year. The conditions on Mount Whitney change from season to season, but contrasted with many of it's glaciated 14,000-foot partners in the Northwest, the weather is quite a bit better throughout the various seasons and the snowpack is usually excellent for climbing during the winter months.

One of our main goals in this program is to make an ascent of Mount Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route. In mid-summer, the Mountaineer's Route is a class three scramble. In the winter, it can range from a rock scramble lightly dusted in snow, to a full-on snow and ice climb with sections of up to 40 degrees in steepness.

 

Curriculum

The Physics & Physiology of Cold Weather

  • An introduction to human physiology in cold weather
  • Equipment, clothing, and shelter for the winter and expedition climber
  • Internal maintenance: food and drink in a cold environment
  • Avalanche hazard evaluation techniques & avalanche release mechanisms
  • Avalanche rescue procedures

 

Winter and Expeditionary Climbing, and Protective Systems Skills

  • Selection and use of ropes, knots and harnesses
  • Design concept, selection and use of ice axe and secondary hand tools
  • Proper choice and application of the primary ice axe positions: piolet canne, panne, manche, poignard, ancre, and traction
  • French, German, and American cramponing techniques
  • Selection and placement of snow pickets and flukes for protection and belay anchors
  • Selection and placement of ice screws for protection and belays
  • Simulation of glacier travel and practice of crevasse rescue skills
  • Winter rock climbing skills
  • Establishment and maintenance of fixed lines, and the use of ascenders

 

Skills for Winter Travel

  • Techniques for skiing or snowshoeing varied, backcountry snow conditions
  • Techniques for skiing or snowshoeing with a pack in low and high angle terrain
  • Principles of roped glacier travel
  • Navigation and route finding in both good and poor visibility
  • Leave No Trace climbing, camping, and travel skills

 

Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra

Dates

Winter Mtn - Sierra Boot

Booting up a snow slope in the Eastern Sierra.      
Andrew Yasso.

Winter 2017 - 2018

December 16-20, 2017

January 13 - 17, 2018

February 9 - 13, 2018

March 3 - 7, 2018

Check out our Lee Vining Ice Climbing options if you would like to extend your winter skills curriculum.    

Please note that if the scheduled dates do not work for you, this trip can be run on a private basis around dates of your choosing and guide availability.

Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra

Cost and Details

Sierra Winter - Descending

Heading back to camp in the Eastern Sierra. Dylan Taylor

Pricing (5 day)

$950; 3 or more participants

$1050; 2:1 Ratio

$1750; 1:1 Ratio

Max Ratio - 3:1

Capacity - 8

Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment, permits and camping fees, and the guide fee. As part of the expedition training, we will be backcountry camping for the duration of the course. 

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear (including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, tent, etc), gratuities to guide, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.

Prerequisites

      • Good physical condition
      • Overnight backpacking experience. Ability to cook for your self on a backcountry stove
      • Overnight cold weather or snow camping experience

 

Rental Equipment

For beginners and other climbers who do not have their own personal climbing equipment, we offer rental equipment.  The following items are available to rent in the Sierra:

  • helmets
  • harnesses
  • ice axes
  • crampons
  • ice tools
  • tents
  • avalanche gear (beacon/probe/shovel)
  • cooking gear (stove/pot/fuel)
  • snowshoes
  • backpacks

 

Please note that we do not rent boots, sleeping bags or sleeping pads in the Sierra; your best option if you need this gear for your course is to contact Wilson's East Side Sports in Bishop, CA, Mammoth Mountaineering in Mammoth Lakes, CA or to bring it with you to Bishop.  Regardless of what you need, please be sure to alert all parties of your rental needs as soon as possible.

Lodging, Shuttle Service, and Directions

Your travel dates should allow for an arrival in town the day before your program begins and for departure the day after your trip ends. We do not recommend that you fly out any earlier than the day after your course.   

The closest major airport to Bishop is Reno, NV, which is roughly a four hour drive away.  Other options include flying in to Las Vegas, NV or Mammoth Lakes, CA.  Bishop is a small town with a variety of accommodation options you can take advantage of before or after your course.

During this course, you will need to provide transportation to and from the course location and possibly while on the course. You should come prepared to drive yourself and your instructor to and from the trailhead and climbing areas. If you would like assistance arranging a rental vehicle please feel free to contact our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, at 509-972-4028.  

Travel Insurance

We strongly recommend that you purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes trip cancellation coverage.  Ripcord is our primary travel insurance provider, offering coverage for trip cancellation, trip delay, baggage, medical evacuation and other eventualities. 

Unlike many vacations that are less physically demanding, a climbing and trekking vacation can be ruined by an illness or relatively minor injury that occurs before departure. While you can still tour a city or head to the beach with a sprained ankle or a very bad cold (albeit, less conveniently), such an injury or common illness can stop you in your tracks short of your climbing or trekking destination.

Winter Mountaineering in the Sierra

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