Denali West Buttress
Camp 1, 7800′
Situated at 7,800 feet, just before the route up the Kahiltna Glacier steepens, Camp 1 on the Denali West Buttress is a vital staging area. Here, teams acclimatize, settle into expedition life, and prepare for a “double carry,” caching food and equipment to ease the move up to Camp 2.
Quick Stats: Distance = 4 miles, Elevation Gain = 3,200 feet. Time: approximate time from Camp 1 to Camp 2 = 9-12 hours.
After reaching Camp 1, most groups go into a “double carry,” or typical expedition-style of climbing. From Camp 1 we typically make a cache at 10,500 feet on one day and then move to Camp 2 on the next. Depending on weather and how warm it is, teams may choose to be on a night schedule up to Camp 2 and even Camp 3.
Camp 1 is where the approach for the West Buttress splits off from the route to the West Rib route. The West Rib route is approached via the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna, also called the “Valley of Death.” Hearing the thundering roar of immense avalanches up the Northeast Fork from Camp 1 is not uncommon.
We will leave a cache of garbage and miscellaneous items at Camp 1 for retrieval on the descent.
